How To Check Pigment Color Undertones

What is undertone?

Undertones are the natural colors underneath the skin. They are:

  • Warm undertones – orangey, peachy complexion/color
  • Cool undertones – bluish or greyish complexion/color
  • Neutral undertones – even complexion/color, not bluish or orangey

Just to give you an example, as most of us know, brown is a neutral undertone as it consists of yellow, blue, red. Different amounts of any of those 3 colors will influence the color undertones. 

When you purchase a Tina Davies pigment set, you’ll get a chart of their pigment colors and you’ll see in the chart their undertones. I also listed them down below to help you better understand them. 

Ash brown – This is a neutral color and is an even combination of 3 main colors.

Grey – Has a cool undertone – more yellow and blue combination. This is recommended for clients who want gray colored eyebrows or clients with already grey hair.

Blonde – Has a warm undertone – a lot of yellow. Results will be lighter than other colors but not cool.

Medium brown – Has a warm undertone. Orange is more present in this pigment color. 

  • If you do powder brows with a harder pressure, you will have dark results. If your technique is light, the healed result will be very orangey or a bit on the red side. 
  • This color is good for hair stroke and microblading technique because of high density.

Dark brown – Has a warm undertone – orange base. This pigment will give you a warm dark brown result.

Bold brown –  Has a warm undertone – orange base. This pigment color is very dark and warm.

Ebony – Has a cool undertone and yellow base. 

  • I advise not to use it alone because it will result in yellow brows.
  • I use it mainly for eyeliner procedure but mixed with bold brown.
  • It can darken any of the warm brown colors and make it a little cooler, but just a tiny drop (0.3 drop).

So… just to summarize

Cool undertones: Ash brown, Grey, Ebony

Warm undertones: Blonde, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Bold Brown

Other important TIPS

  • Techniques or procedures that are dense will result in darker color.
  • Gentle techniques or procedures will result in lighter color.
  • Also, in my case, even if I know the client’s skin undertones, the healed results are still unpredictable. So I can tell that it’s better to know your pigments undertones to avoid worrying and guessing. 
  • I also look at my clients hair color. It helps me decide which color will suit the client. If the client’s hair is grey, then I will choose either ash brown or grey.
  • I don’t also use brown pencils, I use pencils that are more olive in color, so I use pigments with cooler undertones.
  • You can also ask which color your client wants, if she wants it greyish or warm, they usually know this before your appointment.

You can also watch my videos on YouTube about color undertones and color theory to better understand this topic. You can watch them by clicking the titles below.

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