Improve your microblading: How to achieve crisp strokes.

Let me ask you something:

  • Do you struggle with your brow work turning blurry?
  • Do you seem to get endlessly patchy results?
  • Do your strokes never seem to disappear at all?

If you answered yes to any of these above questions then don’t get discouraged because this post is for you. 

Microblading can feel like one of the hardest procedures to learn, and as you likely already know, it takes quite a bit of practice to achieve the desired look. 

The following two factors will greatly influence your results:

A. Your client’s skin condition.

 

B. Your choice of technique, skills, and microblading patterns.

Let’s discuss these in more detail so that you can have a well-rounded understanding of their effects on your microblading goals starting with the first one.

A: Your client’s skin condition.

No matter how excellent your skills are if your client has problematic skin it’s difficult to expect great results.

I personally don’t perform microblading on every skin type and I always try to explain to my clients with a skin condition that it could result in undesirable soft-blurred strokes and that might not meet their ideal expectations. Sure it would still look natural, but it wouldn’t be as ideally crisp as it should be.

You should only move forward with the procedure if after you’ve explained these points thoroughly they still express a desire to continue. 

The following are some of the common skin conditions that can affect your microblading results: 

1. Being overweight.
Often people with overweight body types can experience an oilier skin consistency. If they’re lucky they might receive a powdered brow look but worst case scenario it can possibly heal into a terribly patchy smudged look. You can definitely still provide microblading for such clients, but make sure you choose a more suitable microblading pattern that I will discuss later on in this post.

2. Having big pores.
When working with this skin type it will be very hard to make microblading stay on the skin. Most of your efforts will be lost on this kind of skin during the healing process and it might require several touch-ups furthermore resulting in the strokes will not be as crisp as ideally desired.

3. Previously tattooed brows.
Another difficult skin type worth mentioning is any that’s been previously tattooed with ink that hasn’t faded completely. Even though the strokes might have healed crisply they’ll likely become almost invisible and unable to cover the previous tattoo. In this case, I usually perform machine strokes as they heal nicely in almost any case. For more information about microblading versus machine hair strokes click here.

4. Highly vascular skin.
This skin type often requires several touch-ups because due to the nature of the skin it can be very hard to inject the ink without excessive bleeding. In some of these cases, it is best not to perform microblading at all.

5. Previous skin treatments.
Clients that came to you after skin treatments, facials, sunburns, will have similar results to those with high vascular skin. Microblading in this scenario is not recommended.

B: Your choice of technique, skills and microblading patterns.

    • 3 Finger stretch.
      Your client’s skin is your canvas and you need to work with it stretched tightly. This is a very important condition which many of you might ignore but keep in mind that the more you stretch the skin tightly into the direction of your planned stroke, the crisper it would be after healing.
    • Strokes should not overlap.
      If the front of the brow looks clean and is healing nicely but the middle and tail of the brows appear patchy then this is an indicator that you must work on your stroke placement. As with the front
      , middle and tail parts of the brow, strokes should have their own position and place. I recommend carefully planning the middle brow strokes and practice a hundred times if needed. There should be no sense of improvising the results for your client in these areas and practice makes perfect.
    • Equal distance between strokes.
      Each and every stroke that I place on my client’s brows is with a precise distance between them. If you need some guiding assistance when doing this you can put dots around the shape to assist you with guiding the distance by eye. 
    • Clean pattern.
      It’s important to always make certain that the middle strokes are as clean as the front. There should be no overlapping and no overstuffing the area with strokes.
    • Fewer strokes better healing.
      The less the number of strokes you need to make the less damage you make to the skin and therefore the better healed the result. Don’t try to stuff an empty spot with a bunch of random strokes. Instead, it is better to fill it out on your touch-up to avoid the neighbour strokes being messed up. Otherwise, you can get a patchy and blurry look, or sometimes even scarring. When it comes to people with problematic skin conditions
      I prefer a simpler microblading pattern with just a bunch of semi-curved parallel lines.
    • Make sure to place ink on the skin first.
      You should make sure your blade has ink on the tip before you slide. You want to make sure you get your ink inside the micro-cut so typically I would first slightly tap on the skin to place the ink first and then slide through the skin.
    • Quality of ink.
      The quality of your ink is very crucial and it does improve your results drastically. Although I usually try not to sponsor outside brands I must say that the Phibrows ink is by far my favorite for microblading. 
    • Quality of blades, thin and thick.
      As you could imagine, thinner blades tend to create less damage to the skin which leads to a much crisper outcome. What more can I say? It’s as simple as that.
    • Fewer paths mean better healing.
      Microblading strokes were not meant to look thick, intense or vivid so it’s not recommended that you aim to achieve this by doing too many paths because by doing so this will scar the skin. Clients who like dark, “stand out” brows should choose powder brows, add shading to microblading, or have strokes done by machine. Stay away from any temptation to try to achieve a heavy brow look with just microblading as you’ll cause too much damage to the skin and I don’t recommend it at all. 

The Secret Path

I’m going to share my secret here and that is to inject the ink one more time right after you’ve placed it. Right after you finish one side of the brow you can inject ink one more time (very carefully) throughout the pattern before finally moving to the other brow. Let’s consider what happens when you move to the other side, your skin will naturally react and start to lock in the ink so it makes no sense to reopen it again and again and thus damage it.

When doing this you should place the ink with caution over the exact same stroke being careful not to go over the boundaries. Otherwise healed strokes will come out thicker and blurrier. After the second (or at most the third) path of ink injection, you should stop and if the stroke is not dark enough you should explain to the client that you’ll be leaving it for their touch up. 


Your pattern for each skin type

For good, tight-conditioned skin, I prefer to use a more complicated pattern:

For oily, problematic skin, I prefer to use a simpler, parallel lines pattern:


Pressure and depth 

It’s important for new students to pay careful attention to the depth of their work as it is common that they might tend to go too deep in the beginning. It should only be as deep as you would do if you were microblading without numbing cream; as shallow as possible! Remember, you can always add missing strokes on the touch-up but you can never color correct deeply scarred blue strokes. You can practice on fruits and bananas, just slightly scratching the upper layers.

Want to learn more? Check out my videos on Youtube.

15 Comments

  • Avatar
    by
    Jacqueline Ranglin

    wow wow wow Im so happy and thrilled by your generosity and kindness to share this information. Your a true leader by helping us you are raising the standards in the industry and the quality of your work is head and shoulders above so that we learn what is right and can teach each other what and be an example. can you tell me a little more about your photo editing course do we need any specific computer or photoshop tools for the course, how often do you give the course and what is the cost. Thank you sooo much for your videos on you tube because of you the microbladng and pmu standards have been raised. and this makes us all look good.

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      Thank you so much for your kind words, Jacqueline! Your continued support is very much appreciated!

      I am really glad that I am able to help our community grow by sharing my knowledge through tutorial videos and blogs. Any questions and suggestions from you will also be a great help, so please feel free to contact me if you have any. <3 <3 <3

  • Avatar
    by
    Fotini Phae Paliadelis

    I’m so impressed with your tutorial videos. I have been in the beauty industry for over 3 decades and I’m also a qualified trainer and assessor, I signed up with another company which I’m very disappointed in. Their training is useless as many of their educational videos don’t even have sound, which is utterly ridiculous.
    How can you learn without hearing what the persons actually doing?
    Anyway just wanted to say thank you, you really are excellent at wgat you do and explain things very well.
    Thank you I wish I’d found you first.

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      I really appreciate your support and kind words, Fotini! Thank you!

      Hearing your story about your previous training just saddens me. And this is one of the many reasons why I am inspired to create tutorial videos and blogs – so we can help each other and learn from one another. So, if you have questions and suggestions, please don’t hesitate to email me. <3 <3 <3

  • Avatar
    by
    Sharon Hindman

    What needle size are you using to do the shading. I enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

  • Avatar
    by
    Jayne

    Wonderful tutorial.. Thank you. Also your hints and tips of how you achieve these results are much needed in this industry. You really are a master of this technique. Please can you send me more info of your photo class. I have signed up 2ice, but have received no info.. Thank you once again
    ?? Jayne.

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      Hi Jayne! <3 The Photo Editing Guide will be launched in a few more days. I'll make sure you're on the list! 🙂 I'll send you an e-mail once it becomes available. Thank you sooo much! 🙂

  • Avatar
    by
    Jessica Tomblin

    I LOVE YOUR WORK!!! AND I SO APPRECIATE ALL THE VIDEOS AND TIME YOU TAKE TO NOT ONLY TEACH US NEWBIES, FOR FREE, BUT REPLY TO ALL OUR QUESTIONS!!! I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT SIZE NANO U BLADE YOU USED FOR FIRST 3 TO 4 PASSES BEFORE MACHINE NANOSHADING??? SIZE BLADE AND THICKNESS Of U Blade!!! What brand of blade, where can I buy the U blade u so raved about being GAME CHANGING!!!??
    THANK U
    JESSICA

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      Awww!! <3 Thank you so much for your kind words, Jessica! I really appreciate your support! 🙂

      To answer your questions, the size of the nanoblades I'm using is 18U 0.14-0.15mm. I'm using my own brand, BeautySlesh Nano Blades, and they will be available on my website really really soon! 🙂

  • Avatar
    by
    Natasha Yates

    Thank you for sharing your information. It has been so so helpful to me at the start of this journey. So many things I can now implement and improve 🙂

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      I’m so glad to be of help! 🙂 thank you so much for your support! <3

  • Avatar
    by
    CHINA WHEELER

    Thank you for all these excellent tips!!! Game Changers ❤️

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      You’re so welcome! 🙂 Thank you for the support! <3

  • Avatar
    by
    Andriana

    Your awesome thank u!
    God bless u cause only a nice person would generously give so much information to strangers!!

    ❤️

    • BeautySlesh
      by
      BeautySlesh

      Thank you so much, dear! 🙂 I’ll always be glad to help you guys! <3 <3

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